Heading for Mesolonghi

Catchup time again!

When last I wrote we were in Port Atheni on Meganisi, a lovely spot. From there we went back to Nidri where a spent a couple of days at anchor in Tranquil Bay, met up with Pat and Jenny on Muscavado, again, weathered a couple of storms and finally decided, let's go back to Port Atheni and then be on our way to Mesolonghi. (By the way, if I keep changing my spelling of Mesolonghi it is because I have seen so many different spellings I can't decide which one to adopt!)

We needed to fill up with water so we immediately secured Ganymede stern-to the quay and there we stayed for three days. The weather was unsettled but we were able to wander up to the village of Katamiri, through the narrow streets, sit and drink coffee and watch the world go by, all the while greeting everyone as we passed, "kali mera, kali merasas, yassas...". The tourist season was definitely at an end. Some of the cafés and restaurants had already closed, others opened at random times so that you could never be sure what you would find, others were planning to remain open one more week.

The wind turned northerly and our peaceful mooring became less pleasant with waves hitting us broadside, pushing us, straining the anchor. We decided to move, drop anchor in the bay. And then we thought, the wind is perfect for Mesolonghi, why don't we just get on our way? So that is what we did. In three hours we were at anchor in Petala bay, another three hour sail ahead of us the following day - although that turned out to be three hours motoring, very little useful wind, and we were in Mesolonghi. Ready for the winter.

Port Atheni

One morning we sat in the taverna enjoying our coffee and I suddenly thought how silent it was. The sun, the sea, the mountains. There seemed to be total silence. And then I listened. There was the noise of the cooks working in the kitchen, a fan whirring in the background. Somewhere there was the sound of a motorbike making its way along the coast road, a fishing boat was chug-chugging into the harbour, and although I initially thought there was no birdsong, when I really listened, it was there. Of course, there were seagulls squawking in the background, people talking. But it was all so peaceful and gentle.

From Port Atheni there are a number of walks to take. On our first morning we enjoyed coffee in the taverna and then headed to the nearby village, about 1km away. It is a lovely walk, uphill of course, through olive groves, the olives heavy on the branches, fast ripening, ready to be gathered. And then, every now and then, a view of the surrounding bays would open up, flat calm sea, boats slowly moving through the water, mountains in the background, a bright, deep, blue sky. And just to break any possible monotony, sheep dozing under olive trees, hiding from the incessant heat of the sun.

We have never visited Port Atheni before. We didn't want to go on the quay, which we understand is new this season, but it took a couple of tried to find the right spot to drop the anchor. And then we stayed, enjoying the quiet, the beautiful scenery, the intimacy of the bay. It was good.

From early afternoon the quay fills up with flotilla boats, the flotilla leaders very competent, guiding the novice sailors safely into their berths. Then, in the evening, they all go off to the local tevarna, a good dinner, a very little Greek dancing and then the disco.

6th October

Finally, Tony was ready to leave Tranquil Bay. He had decided that it was time we stayed in one place for a while but for me two or three days in Nidri are enough and I was anxious to be moving on. I read five books that week!!!

Our destination was Meganisi Island less than an hour away. First task was washing the mud off the chain and anchor: wow but the mud there sticks. It took ages to wash it off, occasionally dunking it back in the water for a few seconds in the hope that would help, but mostly using the hose, aiming water at the thick clump of mud that was glued to the anchor. Eventually, with most of the mud off I decided to take the wheel and have Tony finish the job. And so to Meganisi.

The wind was kind to us, blowing from a perfect angle to allow us to sail on the genoa only. Lovely. Peaceful. We floated along, enjoying the scenery, and all too soon we were approaching our planning anchorage, Port Atheni. There are a number of possible anchorages here but I fully intended going right to the bottom of the bay before we dropped anchor. I knew something Tony didn't: there is wifi there.

Catch Up

5th October

Now that the cruising season is coming to an end I finally feel motivated to restart this blog. Of course, I missed all the places we have visited this summer: Siracusa, Otranto and then across to Corfu and other Ionian Islands before leaving Ganymede on the hard at Cleopatra yard and heading back to UK for the summer. We have been back on board since the beginning of September, meandering through the islands, visiting favourite towns and anchorages but now we are beginning to think of the winter season, of exploring Mesolonghi and the surrounding area.

So, where to start? I think a picture of where we are today. Nidri on Lefkada island. we have been at anchor in Tranquil Bay for a week now. It is a lovely spot, surrounded by mountains and tree-clad hills. The small town of Nidri nestles on the shore, opposite the anchorage. Its a bustling place, full of bars and restaurants, tourist shops with their wares spilling onto the pavements so that passers-by spill on to the road, avoiding cars and motor bikes. We had torrential rain a few nights ago leaving the air clear and fresh and Ganymede free of the accumulation of salt and dust.

The photo is too small isn't it. I thought it is impossible to portray the magnificence of this bay so tried to capture just one, small slice: the town, some boats and a road leading up the mountain.

What did we do with the winter?

10th June 2009

When last I wrote we were in Gioia Tauro getting ready to set off for Siracusa and then on to Greece for the winter. But I was having doubts, didn't really want to go to Greece. So, we made our way to Siracusa and spent a couple of weeks there, tied to the town quay. I love Siracusa, there is so much life, a beautiful old town that is being slowly renovated, and a fantastic morning market, bursting with fresh produce and the most amazing selection of fresh fish. 

As usual, there was change afoot, new projects starting up, and this time we cruisers are affected. The town quay is to be overhauled, the quay extended into the sea by at least a meter, new sea walls to be built and a new marina. We were lucky, we were able to spend our time there at the quay. A few days after we left it was closed to all boats so they either had to anchor in the bay or go into the marina. Both are good options, just not as good as being on the quay.

For me, though, the best part was that Tony finally agreed that going back to Calabria and spending the winter in the Marina Stellla del Sud in Vibo Marina, was our best option. Yeah!!! The last days of September saw us settled in for the winter and getting to know the town.

So now it is 15th June and I really can't get my head round what we did over the winter months. We went back to UK more times than we usually do, drove the car back to Italy at the beginning of February - that was good - drove it back to Banbury at the end of April - and that was even better - in between making a March visit home for Charlie's birthday - and otherwise pottered around Vibo Marina, living well, eating well, speaking lots of Italian... and complaining about the weather. Of course, last winter had to have been the worst winter 'in living memory' or 'in 50 years' - tick whichever one applies. Regardless, I no longer allow Tony to say 'Global Warming': the phrase has to be 'Climate Change'!

Angie at Marina Stella del Sud is warm and friendly and nothing seems to be too much trouble for her. I would highly recommend the marina to anyone thinking of spending time in that area.  We (I!) are seriously considering another winter there.

Perhaps I should say more about the town? It isn't pretty. It isn't touristy, but we liked it. There were good food shops, adequate supermarkets and a great Monday market. There was Pedro's pizzeria/rosticceria - great for a relaxed, very cheap, simple night out - or a couple of other more upmarket restaurants for celebrations or for something a lot more elegant is required. What more could anyone want? A good train station with regular connections near and far? It had that. Interesting places to visit? That too. Some beautiful countryside? Outstanding - but needed a car to appreciate it. All in all, we made a good choice I think.

And now we have gone. Maybe to return.