From Port Atheni there are a number of walks to take. On our first morning we enjoyed coffee in the taverna and then headed to the nearby village, about 1km away. It is a lovely walk, uphill of course, through olive groves, the olives heavy on the branches, fast ripening, ready to be gathered. And then, every now and then, a view of the surrounding bays would open up, flat calm sea, boats slowly moving through the water, mountains in the background, a bright, deep, blue sky. And just to break any possible monotony, sheep dozing under olive trees, hiding from the incessant heat of the sun.